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Silk cloth fragment with traces of woven Chinese characters (TRC 2000.0009).Dr Monica Klasing Chen is assistant-professor in Chinese art history at Heidelberg University, Germany. She participated in the April edition of the TRC Intensive Textile course, and wrote a blog about her experiences, further to an earlier blog published on 15 May.

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The TRC Intensive Textile Course was not only rewarding for the many skills we learned, but also because Dr Vogelsang selected materials and objects that catered to the specific interests of the participants.

As a sinologist, I was ecstatic to see a textile with Chinese characters woven during the 2nd century (see illustration) next to an exquisite 19th century velvet produced for the European market (see illustration). When the course took place, the TRC had coincidentally set up a display case with several lotus shoes (see illustration) and the tools for making them, also featured in their online exhibit. This was especially interesting to me, because my great-grandmother had bound feet. 

The new Taliban regime in Afghanistan remains committed to rules and regulations that restrain the freedom of women. Posters have recently been stuck up in Kabul, showing the two 'recommended' forms of women's outdoors clothing, namely the traditional 'blue burqa', and the more Middle Eastern 'black burqa' (compare an earlier TRC blog).

But really fascinating was the new 'uniform' of the officials of the Ministry for the Prevention of Vice and Promotion of Virtue. They were photographed recently in Kabul with their traditional long black beards, but also wearing a coat that made them look like Iranian scientists trying to develop a nuclear bomb; it is a very Western-style, white coat of a type the rest of the world associates with hospitals, laboratories, abattoirs etc. The Taliban officials wear this coat over their shalwar kamiz. It may get a bit warm. Is this garment now part of the specific uniform of officials of this ministry?

Afghan Taliban officials of the Ministry for the Prevention of Vice and the Promotion of Virtue. Photograph BBC 22 May 2022.

Dress is a language and the white coat obviously carries a message. What does this coat tell us? There is something hygienic and clinical, scientific and objective about the coats. They are not traditional or even traditionally Islamic; the message seems to elevate the wearer above factions and political opinions. "We preach a divine message, which goes beyond any 'political' controversies."

Can anyone help the TRC to acquire such a coat for its collection?

Willem Vogelsang, 23 May 2022

We are pleased to announce the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding for further collaboration with the LDE Centre for Global Heritage and Development. CGHD is a collaborative enterprise of Delft University of Technology, Erasmus University Rotterdam and Leiden University. It focuses on the question how heritage relates to cultural, social and environmental developments and decisions.

Woman's mola (blouse) from Panama, with a large appliqué with the number 25, marking the San Blas uprising of the Kuna people, in February 1925 (TRC 2014.0458).

In general terms, cooperation will cover the following fields: the setting up of joint research projects and joint publications; organising joint educational and cultural activities; exchange and support of students; exchange of faculty and/or other staff.

The MoU reflects a growing interest from the side of various academic centres for museum and heritage studies in the practical opportunities offered by the TRC for training students and others and for working 'hands on' with actual objects from the extensive TRC Collection.

The MoU was signed on behalf of the TRC by Dr Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director, and on behalf of CGHD by Prof. Pieter ter Keurs, Director.

Two other reviews of the TRC-supported Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Embroidery, namely the Encyclopedia of Embropdiery from Central Asia, the Iran Plateau and the Indian Subcontinent (London 2021). One of them has just been published by the International Institute for Asian Studies, Leiden, the Netherlands and was written by Linda Hanssen, former curator for textiles at the Wereldmuseum in Rotterdam.. You can download the review here.

Another review was published in June 2022 by the Zai Initiative (Abu Dhabi).

Purchase of the volume against a reduced price: Click here.

The next volume in the series, on African embroideries, has been submitted, and work on the fourth volume, on embroidery from Scandinavia and western Europe, is advancing rapidly. The first volume appeared in 2016 and covered embroidery from the Arab World.

7 August 2022

Dr Monica Klasing Chen is assistant-professor in Chinese art history at Heidelberg University, Germany. She attended the 5-day TRC Intensive Textile Course in April. She wrote a blog about her experiences and how the course has affected her work and her interests in textiles. A second blog that she wrote about the course, and which will focus on her personal highlights during the week, will be published shortly.

Satin bag, China, late 19th century (TRC 2010.0138).

Large silk 'cloud' collar for a woman, with embroidered panels and open areas, China, early 20th century (TRC 2004.0108).

The 9th May is Europe Day within the Leiden City of Science 2022 programme. Se we decided to illustrate various waistcoats, from different parts of Europe. Some of them are for men, others for women, and others we are not really sure of.

The TRC is happy to welcome everyone tomorrow 9th May between 10.00 and 16.00.

Woman's waistcoat from North Macedonia, c. 1920 (TRC 2021.3007d).

Hand embroidered waistcoat from Romania/Ukraine, 20th century (TRC 2022.0390).

The last few days have been busy and exciting at the TRC and beyond! So what is new? We have been working hard on the Arizona collection and nearly 400 items are now online. Then via the post came five garments from Socotra, an island just south of Yemen, thanks to Julian Jansen van Rensburg from the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.

Embroidered woman's blouse (huipil) from Guatemala, 1930s ? (TRC 2022.1243).

It is estimated that traditional Ukrainian embroidery utilises at least 200 different stitches. While there is wide regional variety as to stitches, thread colours and motifs, one motif is found across the entire country: a red geometric star (sometimes called a rose), done in a running stitch.

Detail of Romanian/Ukrainian Hutsul shirt, late 20th century (TRC 2022.0366).