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The last few weeks we published various blogs about the garments worn by Taliban men and about the dress that they 'suggest' Afghan women to wear. As for the latter, we noted that the niqab and abaya, now promoted by the Taliban as 'Islamically correct', is Arabic in origin and distincty different from the traditional, all-enveloping burqa that was enforced by the Taliban leaders upon Afghan women in the 1990s.

We indicated that the niqab and abaya set was introduced in Peshawar and other parts in the Pashtun-dominated Afghan-Pakistan borderlands in the 1980s when many Arabs flocked to the area to help the Afghan Mujahedin against the then communist regime in Kabul and their Soviet backers. One of them was Osama bin Laden.

Mullah Abdul Ghani Baradar (left), and Khalil ur-Rahman Haqqani (right). Photograph: The Times.

Among the items in the TRC Collection there are a range of handbags and purses, as well as a couple of what are called miser’s purses and yesterday we were given seven more. But what exactly is a miser’s purse?

Basically it is made up of a long, flexible tube with two rings. Apart from miser's purse, this accessory has various names including ring purse, string purse, long purse, and finger purse. In the Netherlands it was known as a kousenbeurs ('socks' purse'), and in France as a bourse aumônière. It was fashionable in many Western countries for both men and women from the latter half of the 18th to the early 20th century. They were sometimes hung over a belt, on other occasions stored in pockets or within other bags.

Joshua Reynolds: 'Mercury as cut purse', AD 1774. A boy, representing Mercury, is holding a miser's purse in his left hand. Courtesy Faringdon Collection Trust.

Following our earlier blog about the Taliban in Afghanistan going global, here a photograph of students in Kabul wearing Middle Eastern hijab; a long way from the traditional all-enveloping Afghani and Pakistani one-piece chadari or burqa enforced by the Taliban when they were in power between 1996 and 2001.

Have a good look at the photograph: all of the women wear the Saudi-style abaya and niqab, rather than the burqa with its mesh-like mask in front of the eyes, which became iconic for Taliban controlled Afghanistan in the 1990s.

As discussed earlier, in this instance the three-piece 'black burqa' takes precedence over the traditional one-piece 'blue burqa'. It may be no coincidence that the mother of Sirajuddin Haqqani, the acting Taliban Minister for the Interior, originates from the Persian Gulf.

The photograph was taken last Saturday,

Gillian and Willem Vogelsang

Afghan female students in Kabul, Saturday 11 September 2021, with Takiban flags. The women are wearing Saudi-style abaya and niqab, as propagated by the new Taliban rulers (QURESHI AFP).

A friend of the TRC Leiden, Ann Cable, came to the Hogewoerd a few days ago with some donations for the TRC Collection, including African textiles and garments that belonged to her parents – her father was a senior British diplomat who served in different countries.

A mokorotio straw hat (1970s, Lesotho (TRC 2021.2623).

The last few days there have been reports in the international press about the Taliban encouraging women in Afghanistan to wear, when in public, an abaya and a niqab, rather than the all-covering burqa which they imposed upon women when they were in power before, between 1994 and 2001. Well, that has certainly got some interesting implications!

Group of Afghan women wearing their 'blue burqa.' Photograph by A. Majeed, AFP.

Participants of the August TRC Intensive Textile Course. Gillian Vogelsang stands to the left. Photograph: Evelyn ValenciaEvery piece of garment holds a wealth of stories. What is the story behind what you are wearing? After attending the Intensive Textile Course at the TRC, I see my wardrobe, accessories, spools of threads, and visits to museums in a completely different way. I definitely appreciate the clothes I have a lot more.

Education and research aside, if anyone is serious about downsizing their wardrobe or to stop buying unnecessary garments, this workshop is also a great bootcamp for you. Side effect warning: you may get a compulsion to spin anything that looks like they can be spun into yarn. Keep away from your neighbours’ furry friends.

Former President Hamid Karzai of Afghanistan with Foreign Minister Wang Yi of China, December 2019. Karzai is wearing the Uzbek-style chapan. He is holding a karakuli cap in his hands. Courtesy Ministry of Foreign Affairs, PRC.Some of you may remember Hamid Karzai, President of Afghanistan from late 2001 until 2014, who used to wear a beautiful striped chapan hanging down from his shoulders, There are some good examples in the TRC Collection (for instance TRC 2004.0268).  The garment symbolised his being the president of all Afghans, not only of his own ethnic group, the Pashtuns.

Karzai’s chapan is characteristic for the Uzbeks from northern Afghanistan. A Pashtun from the south, where Karzai hails from, would not be seen dead in it, but Karzai donned this northern garment as soon as he was proclaimed as the first president of post-Taliban Afghanistan. He did so after he had taken off the very different, typically Pashtun dress of southern Afghanistan which he had adopted after being dropped in Uruzgan, southern Afghanistan, by the CIA, in late 2001.

Group of Taliban leaders in Doha, Qatar, August 2020.

Looking at recent photographs of Taliban leaders who are now in charge in Afghanistan, there is one specific garment that is conspicuous by its dullness. I am not referring to the voluminous turbans, but to their dark coloured, undecorated waistcoats. Waistcoats have been worn in Afghanistan for quite some time, but many of them are far from dull and often decorated with colourful embroidery and metallic braids.

A Kandahar waistcoat recently given to the TRC by Marjan Brandsma (1970s, TRC 2021.2551).

Back of Afghan waistcoat TRC 2021.2551.