A current collection highlight ((TRC 2023.0531)) is this Moroccan kaftan (or caftan/qaftan), c. late 19th century or early 20th century, made out of Syrian satin silk and beautifully embroidered with gold and silver threads. This type of kaftan was originally worn by women in the Tétouan region (northeastern Morocco) and is thus often referred to as a “Tétouan kaftan” (Caftan de Tétouan).
Kaftan from Morocco, made from Syrian Atlas cloth, c. 1900 (TRC 2023.0531).
This style, especially with its large sleeves, is said now to be rarely worn by younger generations. It could have been worn with other items of clothing, such as an equally embroidered bolero and could be cinched at the waist with a belt.
Detail of kaftan, TRC 2023.0531.These refined kaftans would usually be made out of velvet, wool or, as in this case, fine silk, and be worn on festive occasions. The kaftan was originally a popular garment of the Persian and Ottoman Empires before becoming an important piece of Moroccan traditional clothing around the 16th and 17th century, for both men and women.
The type of gold (or metal) embroidery on this piece is known as Sqalli and is said to have originated in the Jewish district of Tétouan and in Fes. The triangular motifs embroidered on the front bestow the name of Khanjar (or khenjar) to this type of coat pattern, translating as “dagger” (in reference to the pointed shape of the decorative patterns).
An interesting detail about this kaftan however, is that the ground silk material (white and blue striped satin “Atlas” cloth) seems to be of Syrian make and resembles the style of Ottoman types of garments rather than a typical Moroccan style of the time period. So, while the cloth could be from Syria, the striped look resembles Ottoman pieces, while the design and embroidery of the kaftan are Moroccan; a blend of culture and history.
Augusta de Gunzbourg, TRC curator, 2 November 2025
